Understand the electrical claim
Does the claimed peak power make electrical sense?
Enter the numbers from a bike’s battery and controller. ERideMatch will show stored energy, the simple battery-side input ceiling, and what the result can—and cannot—prove.
Open the calculatorBattery + controller
Use the label numbers,
not the marketing headline.
Battery voltage and controller battery current provide a useful electrical cross-check. They cannot confirm motor-shaft output, hill performance, or how long a peak is sustained.
The system name on the bike or battery label—not the fully charged voltage.
Ah
Amp-hours describe stored charge. Look for “Ah” on the battery or specifications.A
Use maximum battery amps, not phase amps. Check the controller label or manufacturer documentation.V
Filled automatically for common lithium-ion systems. Confirm it against the charger or battery documentation.W
Optional. This is the manufacturer’s peak claim you want to check for electrical plausibility.Calculated from your numbers
Claim check
The claim may depend on a full battery or short boost period.
1,310 W is above the nominal-voltage estimate but within the full-battery estimate. Voltage sag, programmed current, and the battery-management limit still matter.
Volts × amp-hours = watt-hours
A 48 V, 15 Ah battery stores about 720 Wh. Watt-hours are energy, not motor power. Real range changes with speed, load, weather, hills, tires, and assist level.
Volts × battery amps = watts
A 48 V system with a 25 A battery-current limit implies about 1,200 W at nominal voltage. For two controllers, add their maximum battery-current limits first. A full battery can briefly calculate higher because its voltage starts above the nominal label.
Input watts are not wheel watts
Motor efficiency, voltage sag, wiring, software limits, heat, gearing, phase current, and the battery-management system all affect real output. A dynamometer is needed to measure it.
What this tool is good for
Spotting a peak-power claim that is plausible, depends on fresh-charge or boost conditions, or does not fit the published battery-side numbers.
What it is not
A performance guarantee, motor-output measurement, wiring guide, or reason to bypass controller or battery safety limits.
Put the number in context
Power alone does not choose the right bike.
Fit, load, motor position, gearing, torque, range reserve, braking, route, and legal classification still matter.